Monday 2nd September, 2002 – Lola:

Up at 3 a.m. – what the ?? Arrive Cairo airport minus the breakfast boxes. What the ?? We got to our boat, the Tamr Henna, in Luxor, just in time, as it was due to sail within minutes…10.00 p.m. to be exact! What the ??
Doug – After swimming and relaxing for the afternoon on the M/S Tamr Henna we set off at 4.00 p.m. to visit Luxor and Karnak Temples. We were all blown away with the size and beauty of both temples. Back to the boat for dinner, which was beautiful, then out again at 8.00 p.m. to the Karnak Temple for a sound and light show ( LE 90.00 p.p.). Home by 9.30 p.m., we all went to bed happy, contented and knackered, ready to face another day.

Tuesday 3rd September, 2002 – Dinah:
Valley of the Kings – 46 Celsius
Luxor: Well, we are still on the boat, but we haven’t left the dock yet! Today we sleep in until 6.00 a.m. (very spoilt). Cath & Deanne were up at 4.45 a.m. to do he hot air balloon over the Valley of the King’s at sunrise and said it was spectacular! The remainder of the tour group left the boat at 7-ish and caught up with them along the way. First up was the Temple of (Queen) Hatshepsut. From a distance it looked as if it was built in these times, not thousands of years ago. When you get close to it, with the cliff face as its backdrop, you can imagine how amazing it would have looked before her step-son destroyed all the statues, etc, of her. Back to the bus, and we continued on to the Valley of the Kings. We went into the tomb of Amenhotep II, beautiful but boiling! Some of the group went in to see Ramses III and Ramses IV tombs.

We lazed around the pool in the afternoon and had lots of fun with the traders at the (Esna) lock, buying kaftans, tablecloths, etc from their boats. The cocktail party was a dry one (non-alcoholic) but good fun anyway, then on to dinner at 8.00 p.m. After dinner we were entertained by the Nubian staff members. Some of us got involved (dragged up) and danced with them to the longest song in existence, I’m sure! So we finished another great day in Egypt on a high. Oh yeah – according to our excellent sources the weather has been about 45 Celsius at our excursion sites – not bad…in July, it was 60 Celsius!

Wednesday 4th September 2002 – Pam:
Edfu – 48 Celsius
Egypt is living up to its reputation – unsettled tummies abound, but life goes on! A few of us are yet to be affected.

Some of us are up early as the ship leaves Esna early a.m. for Edfu. We are on deck at 6 a.m. – balmy and our first sight of wind. Great to watch as the locals begin their day. Donkeys take workers to the fields, fishermen beat the water to scatter fish into their nets, while Nile herons are everywhere. The river is lined with sugar cane in various stages of development. George serves us tea on the sun deck – nothing is too much trouble! We approach the bridge at Edfu – so low that the sun roof must be lowered. So low that there are only inches between my head and the bridge, as I video our passage under the bridge. A market on the bank of the river captures our attention – camels, donkeys, and much noise among the tents.

9.30 a.m., and we are ready to visit the Temple of Cath’s favorite God – Horus. We travel by horse and cart – three squashed into each, four in some. It is chaotic as we make our way thru the village, a claxon horn on each carriage repeatedly sounded. A great picture of village life along the way, with traditionally dressed women carrying live chickens, upside down, to market; faces painted with mud to deflect the sun; bread piled high on tables for sale; children everywhere. Amidst the hundreds of horses and carts, some prettily fringed with coloured wool tassel and others with metal cut outs, there are kids on bikes, a few cars, tourist buses and donkeys…it is bedlam!

A bazaar before the Temple is colourful and the sellers many, but not too pushy. Prices seem cheaper here – galibeyas for LE 5.00. The tip for the horse and cart ride increases to LE 10 per cart, and Helen, whose hat blows off, pays LE1.00 to the small boy who returned it. The Horus Temple dates from the ancient Apollinoples Magna. It is said by our guide, Ahmed, that it is the most intact temple in Egypt. Built by the Greeks (who worshipped Egyptian Gods) to the traditional Egyptian plan. It took 25 years to build and 9 years to decorate the temple. Anyone could enter the open courtyard, but only the high priests etc could enter the covered area, and only the Royals and high priests could enter the rear, to the holy of holies. The walls of the open courtyard are covered with stories. Many are about Horus, the protector of Egypt, the coronation of the pharaoh (which took place inside the forecourt) and most interestingly stories of the annual visit of Hathor to her husband, Horus. It seems that she lived in her own Temple North of Luxor and each year they were required to spend 15 days together, during which time pilgrims came to visit (among other things, you would hope!) Priests carried Hathor, in her golden boat, to the Nile, then proceeded upstream. Horus, in his golden boat, did likewise, and they met halfway and returned to the Temple of Horus.
The Temple has a series of doorways that get smaller the further inside you go. The pillars (Grecian in appearance) are carved beautifully, and the stories remain readable on walls and pillars. The external walls of the Temple and the courtyards are covered in huge, remarkably intact, drawings. Only the ceilings show the telltale signs of destruction - blackened by fire. Back at the boat after refreshing towels and lemonade it is a race to the pool for some, or air-conditioned comfort for others. (Cath – Deanne and I were at a shop near the dock, helping Hanny and Doug buy some beers, when the boat took off without us! There was much yelling and running about by the staff to bring her back to pick us up!)

P.S. Ahmed says that Cleopatra was Greek. In fact, her parents were Greek, but she was born in Egypt.

After lunch, r ‘n’ r, then the boat docked again for a late afternoon visit to the Temple of Kom Ombo, overlooking the Nile. Built in the Ptolemaic period (Greek) on the remains of a sanctuary built in the Pharoanic times at the time of Thutmose. Kom Ombo means “Mountain of Gold”. It is an unusual temple in that it is dedicated to 2 Gods, not 1. Sobek, the crocodile God, was not well known, so to add value / prestige to his temple a temple to the well-known and revered Horus was built alongside. The site was chosen because crocodiles congregated there in their thousands. It is special because:
* Mummified crocodiles were found there – there are 2 on display
* It’s the only temple with an Egyptian calendar in evidence on the walls – the basis of our calendar.
* It has a Nile-o-meter – the height of the Nile affected prosperity and therefore the level of the taxes.
* Games carved into the stone on the outer walkways.
* Surgical instruments carved into the walls.
Too many people marred the visit here – why do the boats have to arrive at once? The bazaar – yes, there was one – seemed well organized and policed, with a white line, beyond which no hawker could step. Snake charmers wrapping snakes around tourists necks did not appeal to our group. Deanne again excelled as the barter queen, and her “followers” benefited, while Mal paid too high a price and scurried back to the ship. Dinner again showed the kindness of the staff – traditional soup for Hanny, and ice-creams especially for Pam and Mal!

And then, it was galebaiya time. To the strains of very noisy, modern Egyptian “music”, the Aussies starred! Dinah looked like “I dream of Jeanie” and stole all the prizes (postcards). Doug, in a dress, and failing to keep his legs together, was a highlight, as was the “bum bag” that graced his dress. Hanny, doing the potato game, with galebaiya above his knees, was a sight, as was Hartley’s fine frame silhouetted against the light, taking photos in a dress! Lola and Margot were elegant, but also competitive when it came to the games. The poor Germans were trounced! As for Cath, it was still “Stella” time, as her cysts were playing up. As this writer went to bed the throbbing sounds of an Egyptian disco could be heard and you can bet that the Kingswood gang, hip-flasks in hand, would be dancing on!

Thursday 5th September 2002 – Deanne:
Aswan – 45 Celsius and very windy.
Awoke to beautiful clear morning, enjoyed another healthy breakfast, then joined the group at reception. After producing flight tickets for tomorrows trip to Abu Simbel we journeyed to the High Dam of Aswan (in Aussie, a rather large swimming hole or billabong). After viewing, we again climbed aboard our faithful bus and headed off to the Temple of Isis at Philae – also known as the Temple of lovers, although I, personally, saw none of these…lovers, that is! Considering this temple spent 75 years of its life under water, and survived being moved to a higher place, it was the most beautiful of all the temples. Surrounded by water, I found it simply stunning! Again, we boarded our motor boat which took us back to “Old faithful”, the bus, and we journeyed back to the ship.

I forgot to mention that we also went to the quarry and saw the unfinished obelisk, where it was explained in detail for all by Ahmed how it was cut and moved during the flood season. In the afternoon, we had an unsuccessful attempt at a felucca ride, but the wind was against us, so back on board for a cold one! At 5.30, Cath took Margot, Hartley, Steve Margaret (Poms) and me by horse and carriage to the Old Cataract Hotel. This is where Agatha Christie resided whilst she was in Upper Egypt to write “Death on the Nile”. We paid LE30 to enter the hotel, which is re-imbursed in the form of food and drink at the verandah café. Back to the boat in the carriages, via a stop at the souk to buy apple tobacco for Steve’s newly purchased shisha pipe. Interestingly, large bottles of water here are only LE1.00 each, not the usual LE 3 – 5!

We finished the night off being entertained by a belly dancer and whirling dervish – very entertaining! Cath has made me a cuppa, so I bid this diary a good night!

Friday 6th September, 2002 – Lawrie:
Abu Simbel – 48 Celsius and dusty wind, Aswan 45 Celsius.
Morning dawns bright and clear, with prospects of another hot day ahead – so what’s new!?! This morning we are going on a boat ride – the felucca waits for us at the foot of the ramp. After great manoeuvering around the Navy and police boats, we are on our way. First, around Elephantine Island, and on to Kitcheners Island. Kitcheners Island was presented as a gift to Lord Horatio Kitchener and there he indulged his passion for gardening, with the result that today residents of Aswan have a beautiful island parkland to use for family picnics and outings. We enjoy a relaxed walk across the island, to be picked up by our felucca and sail pleasantly back in a refreshing breeze to our cruise boat. On the way we have the opportunity to appreciate the skills of our Nubian skipper, as he tacks back accurately to our boat.

No time to waste here! It’s all aboard and out to the airport to catch our flight to Abu Simbel. The wind is getting up, but it doesn’t affect us and we have a safe and uneventful flight and enjoy our bread and salad lunch. (made on Cath’s lap, with her Swiss army knife!) Remember that wind? Well, it’s more than just a wind here, and we are buffeted by wind and sand and dehydrated by the heat. Suddenly, it’s all worth it, when we walk around the rocks to confront one of the great icons of Egypt – The great statues of the Pharoah-God, Ramses II. He is depicted in 4 giant statues, depicting him from young pharaoh to mature leader. The affect on all tourists and visitors is visible and even after 3300 years he can still command respect and instill awe!

Inside his temple Ramses great events of his life are depicted on the walls and naturally winners always glory in glory. Those of us who took part in this day will carry the memory through-out our lifetime. For Nefertari, the favorite of his 34 wives, Ramses had such love and respect that he built a temple next to his, and we photographed and examined it to death, too! Back to the airport – our guesses tell us that it is 45 Celsius in downtown Abu Simbel – and I won’t be the one to argue.

We eventually board the aircraft again. Was it here that we had the tug-of-war with the Spanish, or was it when waiting for the flight to get here? Another uneventful, short flight, and news of 38 Celsius in Aswan sounds like a cool change. We pack on the cruise boat for the last time and farewell and thank the crew.

Are we satisfied with such a busy day – NO! Now we head out to a Nubian restaurant for dinner and a show (LE 60 pp and well worth it!). We settle through a delicious meal highlighted by Hartley’s “Holy Water”. Then the floor-show starts and there is a gradual take over of the stage by over-enthusiastic and under talented Australians! We farewell Steven and Margaret (our 2 Poms), and christen them honorary Aussies.

Then out again to the airport, where I am writing this. It is 11.00 p.m., and a nice time to finish todays’ episode. When we land, it is tomorrow.

Postscript by Lola:
Postscript as we are leaving the group (Doug, Hanny, Dinah and myself). We get to Aswan airport with plenty of time to spare! But guess what…the plane is an hour late! What the?? The line of Italians waiting to board is longer that a cue at the MCG. What the?? Cath does a little dance that catches the attention of the airport staff and we are taken through a separate gate! What the?? Well done, Cath! Anyway, all the best for the rest of the trip and I hope there are not too many more “What the’s”!!!

Saturday 7th September, 2002 – Hartley:
Alexandria 35 Celsius.
After farewelling Dinah, Hanny, Lola and Doug – what a fun time we had with them…sorry to see them go – we set off for Alexandria at 9.30 a.m. Many of us had a snooze on the bus after only a few hours sleep due to our late arrival from Aswan at 2.30 a.m. A stop half way for refreshments where we met up with the Aussies again. First stop in Alexandria was at the Citadel, the site of the Pharos of Alexandria – one of the ancient wonders of the world. What a welcome sea breeze greeted us after the soaring heat we have experienced. Our guide for the day, Amel, was a young university graduate. Lunch was at the Mohamed Ahmed restaurant – very busy, very cheap, and we all made pigs of ourselves! Even took some doggy bags to have on the way home! (LE 66.50 to feed the 10 of us – that’s about AUD 27.00!!!) After lunch, a lovely drive along the Mediterranean coast – private beach costs LE5, public beaches cost LE 1. Beach umbrellas as far as the eye can see! Next stop – the catacombs. Compared to those in Rome, these are much more spacious. Bodies were lowered into the tomb by a central shaft. Tombs on 3 levels, the bottom one under water. Horse bones were found in one of the levels. Further around the coast we visited King Farouk’s Palace, now used as the Prime Minister’s Summer residence. A very long drive home, the weary travelers arrived home at the Movenpick at 8.30 p.m.

Sunday 8th September – Mal:
Sharm 39 Celsius
Flight to Sharm el Sheikh was short and pleasant – 1 hour. Checked into the Movenpick Golf Resort – very luxurious! The trekkers – Ahmed, Lawrie, Cath and myself – then headed off around 11.00 a.m. into Sinai, with our friendly Mohammed at the wheel. Almost immediately the countryside changes – mountains, valleys, and dusty sand - what you imagine a desert to be like. Great similarities to outback Oz – salt plains, sand dunes, odd trees and small bushes, camels wandering. Notable difference are the small Bedouin hamlets – lean-to’s of packing case construction, a resident camel for transportation. The geography is fascinating, including obvious glacier formations now covered not in ice, but sand.

St Catherine’s township is small, but all basics are available. I walked in the afternoon. Small children seek you out, obviously to attempt to get money from you. I noted how good their English is – no difficulty holding a conversation.

Dinner at 7 p.m. – typical Egyptian. Bed at 9 for a 1 a.m. wake-up call. Great excitement building! Whilst the trekkers are in Sinai, the others were…

Pam:
While the climbers were bussing their way to St Catherine’s we were ensconced in the most luxury we had experienced in Egypt – the Movenpick Golf Resort at Sharm. Vast marble foyer and lounge, bedrooms with 2 double beds and enough room to hold a small dance, acres of pools, including a 1 kilometer jet stream canal that wound its way past pools for kids, waterslides, salt pools and games areas. If the pools bored us, it was over the bridge and down the terraces to the coral fringed Red Sea and coloured fish to be seen from the pontoon. At night, it was out-door eating in a balmy 28 Celsius and live entertainment from 8.00 to 11.00 p.m. A quality Chinese meal capped off a great night for the 4 of us who were healthy. For Helen, it was a kind, compassionate doctor, whose needle was the highlight! (USD $60 for the “house-call”, and apparently well worth it)!

Monday 9th September – Lawrie takes us from landing at Sharm on 8th through the Mt Sinai climb on 9th :

We land safely again, this time at Sharm el Sheikh airport, and when the others move into the heart of Movenpick luxury, we set off thru the desert to St Catherine’s at the foot of Mt Sinai. How much can you write on a day? The drive itself is such a trip thru desert adventure-land, and then we are settled into St Catherine’s Plaza Hotel and fed and bedded until 1.00 a.m., when the real adventure starts…

The bus trip to the monastery of St Catherine’s from the Plaza Hotel where we stay takes only 5 minutes, then we start the walk. Everything looks the same in the deep dark of the desert and the mountains. We exist only in the pool of light from our torches, as we follow the winding track to the unseen mountains. If we look up we find that we are a tiny sector of an enormous line of fire-flies slowly winding its way upward into the blackness of the night. The reality is, however, that some people must still make a living, and “fire flies” are on the menu! “You like nice camel?” from out of the darkness. It starts soon after we leave the monastery, and follows us almost to the end of the track. At the first offer, Mal is walking backward in-front of us and chatting to us, Ahmed is bounding from rock to rock beside us and setting a pace that extinguishes fire-flies in its slipstream, Cath is chatting back to Mal, and to survive, I have adopted the gait of a camel, even to chewing an end of “Wrigley’s Extra”, and just follow mindlessly into the night. The journey goes on interminably – the winding track goes always higher and always steeper. We stop at the tents to gather our breath and rest our legs. We buy water, then onwards again. Those camels are getting damn good looking!

Surely we have been walking for 10 hours – even the camels are walking in the opposite direction now. Then – lo – we have reached the end of the track. We have triumphed! Rest, replenishment, celebration!!! “NO”, Ahmed explains patiently this is just the end of the track – now we start to climb! But all I can see in front of me is a solid wall of rock! The only one that I have seen that is steeper and uglier I recall was opposite a tram junction at Coburg! But climb we do – upward, upward, upward. Follow the pool of light, climb the next step, concentrate on the footing – these have become the purpose of life. We stop for rests, we encourage each other, we drink water, we start again. How many times? We’ve lost count! Then, at our breath-taking last, Ahmed says “How do you feel now? We are here!”

It is the peak!!! We enter the tea tent to the warmth and cheer of the owner and to hot chocolate. We sit on soft benches and rest. “There, that wasn’t too bad, was it?!?”

We find a flat spot of soft dirt behind a rock ledge and lay out our rented mattresses and lie down under our rented rugs. The stars blaze above us. Have I ever seen a better sky? Not that I remember! We all agree. The stars blaze and the sky above is full of them. They have inspired us all the way on this journey. It is cold, very cold, so we pull the rugs right up over us, but even so, very soon sleep crawls in with us.

Who woke first? Nobody knows, Excitement is an alarm clock. Soft light and voices from the tower of Babel surround us – sunrise is on the way! Hundreds of people find their own vantage points and aim their weapons of record at an unsuspecting prey. Tension builds; we are well into countdown, you can feel it! Then the involuntary expulsion of hundreds of excited breaths chant a single greeting to the great Ra. The explosion of light over the distant mountain tops is reflected on Mt Sinai – puny by comparison.

Slowly, deliberately, majestically he rises. He spreads his hand across the mountains, dispelling darkness, giving form and shape to peaks, valleys and ridges, and the further he stretches the more he fills his canvas with the beauty of this stark terrain. The sun has risen on Mt Sinai!

Afterwards, of course, everything is an anti-climax. We make our thank-you’s and prepare to leave – back to the track and we look down. Even Clancy took a pull, it might well make the boldest hold their breath. If I had been here before I came now, I wouldn’t have. It is quite steep, but, Been there, done that, down we go light-hearted and lead footed…only 7 more kilometers to go and we’ve done it! We each feel the warm smiles of Moses and Elijah on our backs.

P.S. Did you ever see the movie “The Mission”? If not, get it out from the video shop. Run it through and I’m sure you’ll recognize me!

Cath:

Back down by 0915, a quick look at the monastery, then Mohamed drove us back to the Plaza Hotel for breakie and a quick shower. We left St Catherine’s at 145, and arrived back at Movenpick Golf Resort at 1400, tired. Helen had seen the doctor and was recovering. Snoozed, swam, relaxed! The others were full of what a lovely time they’d had relaxing at the resort…poor Lawrie barely made it up the stairs to our rooms, Mal was exhausted, too, and I just wanted to rest!

Tuesday 10th September – Cath:
Sharm 39 Celsius. $1.00 AUD = LE 2.49

Relax day! Up at 0800, wandered to breakie, then Deanne and I went to the beach – many stairs, and many beautiful fish off the pontoon. On to the pool, where I read ‘til 1400. Spent a quiet time in the bar with Deanne, Pam and Mal, then we 4 caught the 1600 shuttle bus to the shops in town. Got a cab back to the resort – LE 20.00 – then grilled prawns in the outdoor restaurant for dinner – YUM! Helen saw the doctor again…getting better, slowly but surely. All the locals recommend really strong, black coffee with lemon as a cure – it works for Margot and Hartley, who only have mild tummy upsets, but Mal and Helen are still suffering. We watched the stage show – Russian dancers – and drank, until bed at 2230.

Wednesday 11th September – Margot:
Sharm 39 Celsius, Cairo 29 Celsius.

Our last morning at “Jolie Ville” Movenpick, at Sharm. We reluctantly leave this luxurious resort, having enjoyed the beautiful surroundings, pools and swimming in the Red Sea. Leaving at 1015 for the airport for our flight back to Cairo. This time, the flight is only half an hour late! Ahmed once again met us at the airport, and we were back at the Movenpick, Pyramids resort at 3.00 p.m. It seems like we are arriving “home” again! Watched the September 11th anniversary commemorations on t.v. Chatted withy Cath and Gamal by the pool, before dinner in the hotel restaurant. Hartley and I went for a walk, and were conned by a young man to visit his perfume and papyrus shop. Back at the Movenpick, a wedding was on in the reception area. Bride all in a white, elaborate dress, loud music and dancing. Little girls dressed in white, carrying candles. Bed at 10.00 p.m.

Thursday 12th September – Helen
Cairo 38 Celsius

A rest day before we all say farewell to Egypt. Some are to return to family and friends, and others to fly to Athens and beyond.

Margot, Cath, Pam and Deanne go shopping – again – and to call on Sayed, who prepares another sumptuous meal. Helen and Laurie get adventurous and head down-town to explore. Quite an exciting and fun trip home in a taxi whose driver has no idea where he is going and has to ask directions twice, but manages to squeeze professionally through honking cars.

The afternoon is spent lazing by the pool where we met a delightful Egyptian family who had lived in Sydney. Mal laid low, but consents to a visit by the doctor. Now for the experience of a lifetime! Sayed invited us to his daughters wedding! At 9.30 p.m. we were driven through the usual crowded streets to Sayed’s. The sight we saw was amazing…ropes of flashing lights and a huge video screen with the beautiful bride live on the screen. The function was held on an empty block of land. On a huge dais were the band and the bridegroom (and his bridal party) who was making his vows. The groom was then carried to sit next to his bride on a special dais.

Upon our arrival we were treated as VIP’s and led directly to the bride, whom we congratulated and we were then photographed with her. We were seated at the front of the guests, who were seated with women on one side of the reception and men on the other. The children were very beautifully clothed and were very excited to be photographed by all of us.

The names of guests were read out and it seemed that money was given to the bride and groom as gifts from each family. We were invited to eat from the wedding breakfast, which was not easy as we had just left the dinner table. Back to the noisy but exciting reception, and we watched as many guests climbed the dais to congratulate the bride and groom.

We made our exit with many, many thanks to Sayed for such a memorable and exciting evening. We have had the privilege of taking part in a celebration few people on our side of the world could ever experience.
Pam:
Our last full day in Cairo for the 7 of us. While Helen and Lawrie went off to town, the 5 of us, plus Cath, stayed closer to home. For Margot and Hartley it was an early walk, where their distinctive style of walk and clothes saw Sayed in his taxi pick them up and take them to the Mena House Golf Course, the pyramids of Giza and local markets – today is butchering day! Mal still poorly, so the 3 girls hired Sayed and Margot joined us for a trip to Mena House Golf Club, photo opportunity at the Sphinx and Pyramids and then shopping for Pam’s grand-daughter – cotton dresses. We end up at Cairo Mall, which Ahmed recommended, and it was the right place to get Western- style children’s clothing in Egyptian cotton – Pam is happy!

Meanwhile, Mal is no better – all local cures have failed! A wedding tonight – Sayed’s (papyrus shop) daughter. Cath, Margot, Hartley, Helen and Lawrie are all going. The rest of us pack, eat, except for Mal, and drink our last Egyptian pounds.

Friday 13th September – Helen:
Cairo 39 Celsius. AUD$1.00 = LE 2.60
Poor Mal is still unwell, and he has to face the long trip home today. At 11.45 a.m. we wave goodbye to Deanne, Pam and Mal, as Ahmed takes them to the airport to head back to Australia. We sun ourselves at the pool and are ready to leave at 3.00 p.m. Cath is staying on to be reunited with Tarek.

Cath:
Ahmed picks up the last 4 of my group, and I wave farewell to them as they leave the Movenpick Pyramids hotel for their flight to Athens. All seem ready for more adventures – I hope they have a great time